Common questions on traveling to Afghanistan
Why were you interested in Afghanistan?
It is full of history and culture. Being an important part of the silk road, this area of the world has always been fought over by many empires. Also, in the news, we usually only see the war-torn side of the country. Not about the people or the natural beauty.
When did you visit the country and how was the situation there at that time?
The first time I visited was in late summer 2018. I spent one month in the Wakhan Corridor. The second time I visited was in June 2019, for 3 weeks. I visited Kabul, Bamiyan and Kandahar. Kabul is always a little bit unstable, but at that time it was far before the presidential elections, so I went in a "good time". I stayed away from the hot spots, such as universities, government buildings, and certain religious sites. Do not take this as travel advice, but my local friends told me the chance at that time of a random low-profile tourist being kidnapped was quite low.
Bamiyan was tightly government-controlled. People were relaxed and I felt very safe wandering around alone everywhere. I biked alone around the lakes in Band e amir for example.
Kandahar was the "capital" of the Taliban and is still populated by a lot of active or ex-Taliban members. The chance of kidnapping was considerably higher. I stayed with a family from Couchsurfing, who helped me stay low profile.
Update July 2021: With the US and NATO withdrawal from Afghanistan, the security situation has deteriorated quickly. The Taliban has gained control of many territories including the Wakhan Corridor.
Would you recommend Afghanistan to other women? Why?
To travel? It depends on your interests. If it's your dream because you are allured by the culture, history, and beauty, then go. Do your research. Find the right time and connections to help you stay safe. Know the risks.
How was your experience with local women? Can you share any stories?
As a woman, I have exclusive rights men won't have. I'm invited to their dance parties, I can sit and eat with them. I was in Kabul during Eid, and it was such a delight to be able to share laughter and dance with a group of women indoors.
Please be mindful that foreign women are treated as a “third gender”. Afghan women do not enjoy the freedom we do.
I understand you stayed with local families, what was the situation of the women of the house in general? Would you communicate with them directly?
Everywhere was different. E.g. in the Wakhan Corridor, most don't speak English or even Dari (they spoke their own languages such as Wakhi or Kyrgyz). I could communicate through body language. The women there were almost all housewives and worked on the farms or with animals. In Kabul, I met women who wear makeup, dress fashionable, spoke fluent English, live alone, and invited me to private parties with alcohol bars in the house.
Did you have to wear a burka? Tell us about how you had to adapt to the country as a foreigner and woman.
Only in Kandahar, I had to wear a Niqab (face covering showing only the eyes), and a nice super long coat to cover my whole body. Throughout the whole country, I wore a hijab. People don't mind if you don't wear one, but they will feel more comfortable, so why not?
In order to not attract unwanted attention, and to show respect, I wore dresses local women would wear. No tight-fitting clothes.
The first time I went to Afghanistan (to the Wakhan Corridor) I didn't wear a hijab most of the time. I wish I did because I'm sure I would have been less alien to the locals. The first few days I entered Afghanistan, I ran into a local man in the market who's a tour guide. He told me I don't have to wear the hijab, and kind of insisted that I shouldn't wear one. He wanted me to know they are not conservative. He would like me to show my friends back home.
In religious sites hijab is a must. In conservative areas like Kandahar, a hijab is a must. Otherwise, it's just your choice. I'd say tight-fitting clothes and revealing clothes in public are big no-nos. (This is only what I know from my limited experience!)
How did you feel about the patriarchal society established in the country?
When I'm traveling there I always try not to have an opinion about it. I like to be a traveler that just observes and learns. I'm not an activist, I came to the country to learn as a traveler, not to criticize the culture. Personally of course I hate how Afghan women have so few rights compared to men.
Did you feel comfortable and safe traveling around the country?
Most of the time except in Kandahar. Please note that I have traveled a lot in Islamic countries so I'm quite familiar with the culture. I have traveled solo quite a lot, so my comfort level is quite different from average people. I hitchhiked alone from Iran to France through Iraqi Kurdistan starting at 19.
What is special about Afghanistan?
The most difficult question! The history, culture, landscapes... The people. How much they go through. How different their lives are. How kind and humble they are. It's a completely different world. It's full of beauty if you look only in that direction.
